Friday 2 March 2012

Wanaka to Queenstown

Lake Wanaka walk
Temperature dropped overnight and we woke to a rather autumnal scene. For the first time, we had to wear a jersey all day.  Internet in our motel had crashed the night before and, alas, had not recovered, so we were unable to publish yesterday’s blog.  New Zealand broadband is really dire. Everywhere supposedly has it but the performance can be slower than in the days of telephone dialup.

Ruby Island on Lake Wanaka
Enough grumbling, we had another great day. Started by going for a walk along the shores of Lake Wanaka. Our path took us along the beach, through lakeside woods, past a vineyard (but resisted the temptation to go in for a tasting – not really a morning pastime), past a National Trust section of protected woodland (but I can’t remember the name of the special trees) to a spot called Waterfall Creek. Nice spot with lovely views across to Ruby Island but no waterfall.

Cardrona Hotel
After the walk we did some shopping in Wanaka, ate our picnic lunch and then headed for Queenstown on the Crown Range Road, which is an alternative, scenic, route to the main highway. It’s a relatively new road, paved only in 2000, and signs warned us that vehicles with trailers are not permitted and that closures are likely when there is snow. The Wanaka end of this road, however, is a gentle drive through scenery not unlike Scottish moors. It passes through the tiny hamlet of Cordrona, famous for the Cordrona Hotel which was built in 1863 and, from the front, looks as old as that. We popped in for a coffee in the bar which has a deliberately olde worlde look and enjoyed a seat in front of a roaring log fire. (Well I did say it was a cold day.)

Crown Range road with hang gliders above
After Cordrona, the road begins to climb up the Crown Range. At the top there is a superb view down the other side, across the valley towards Queenstown.  We watched some hang gliders soaring overhead as we stopped to admire (and photograph) the view. From here the road snakes steeply down in a succession of hairpin bends. Now we appreciated the significance of the signs at the start of the road but, that being said, the width of the road and quality of the surface are far superior to many roads we have travelled in places like Corsica and the Canary Isles.

Morvern Hill - Queenstown is behind it
Once over the range, we re-joined Highway 6 again and suddenly the road became much busier. By this point all the roads from places like Christchurch and Dunedin, that each take different routes over New Zealand’s central mountains, have merged and are heading for Queenstown. Queenstown is a lively town, mecca for thrill seekers and backpackers. Set on the shores of Lake Wakatipu, it sprawls along the lake and up the mountainside behind.

Checked into our motel which has lovely views of both lake and mountains. No veranda to sit on tonight but then it’s far too cold for that anyway. Rain, which had stayed away all day, now appeared and it was a rather damp evening. Walked down into the town for dinner in a restaurant by the wharf. Seems to be a lively place with lots of shops, cafes, bars and restaurants. Look forward to seeing a bit more tomorrow.






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